I hope I will see him back in NL

1: You take a motorcycle of 225 kilo (ex. fuel) and some wood and a lot of hope!

 

 

 

 

 

2: Of course you have the best agent in all Kathmandu. While chatting with him for a while he told me his last big shipment was a Toyota Land Cruiser. That gives a lot of faith except it was in 1993. You also have a hammer and nails. I really hope this is going to work.

 

 

 

3: I forgotten to say there where in total about 15 people busy getting the job done. And from time to time the customs people came to see how we where progressing.

 

 

 

 

4: You close it. Strap it and lift it up on the scale by hand. Have not seen a forklift truck in the hole airport.

The scale says 366 kilo. Holy what have I been taking around the world. Next time I have to go light weight!

 

 

5: Let’s be safe so we push it through the scanner!

I looked at the scanner screen however it was not switched on. But rules are there to follow.

 

 

 

 

You start at 10:30 in the morning at your hotel and around 17:00 hrs you are back. Total cost Euro 1.126,= and that is cheaper than riding here. Inclusive of 1 coca cola and lot’s handshakes and bye bye’s. Anyway I hope Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) is going to take good care of it and that it will arrive at Schiphol Airport this Monday.

Fingers crossed everyone!

16.389 kilometer later

August 7, it should be a short ride into Kathmandu and then party time.

In the morning at breakfast I ask for the distance- and directions to Kathmandu. About 135km they say and because it is the last riding day I believe them. I knew there was something wrong but maybe I was mistaken. As in the last 3 days it is poring rain as I want to leave. I wait a little as I am not in any hurry as it is only 135km.  I looked at the map and the GPS and saw it but did not pay any attention to it. The map has 2 roads going North while the GPS only has one. I wait some more and finally at 11 o’clock I decide to go. It’s still raining. Today I don’t think and I follow the GPS. About 100km I reach the point where I have to turn North and while being soaking wet I feel happy I will be there within the hour. I see the road sign saying Kathmandu 145km. Mmmm I think now I know why I though there was something wrong. The GPS only has the small mountain road I have to do now for over 100km while the paper map has a ‘real’ motorway going north but it would mean going back about 80km. Never go back as Sip always says I take the mountain road. It’s again a wonderful road going up and down the mountains with sometimes great views. Most of the time time the view is blocked by low clouds. I pass some small landslides and rockslides. The nice thing about these small mountain roads is that you meat hardly and other traffic. At an average of 30km an hour I go further and further. Close to 3 in the afternoon I break for lunch and with everything completely soaking wet it even starts to get cold. After lunch it starts to get very busy on the road. Not because everyone finished lunch but because I am almost in Kathmandu. With only 2km to go the rain stops and the shines through the clouds. Does this mean a happy end after all? While waiting for one of the traffic lights I look at myself or maybe I should say at my suite and I have to say I have never seen it this bright and blue before. I guess the rain has washed all the sand and dust of it.

Kathmandu is a a big city I can tell you and there are a lot people who need and want to go somewhere. And they all have an enormous fear of being late. The results is that as in India and Pakistan all use their horn almost constant and if they see an opportunity to pass no matter how remote of success they still feel they should try it. Riding a, for them,  unique motorcycle gives me a bit of leeway but it is still challenging.

I have to admit that I did try but I also failed at having any idea of where to go. However as in many previous city’s there are 2 guys on a motor following me and looking at me for a while. When I ask them for directions they are more then happy to escort me to my hotel. After arrival we drink a cola together. First question they ask is how much the motor costs and the 2nd question is if I can get them a job in Europe. Happened many times before. I park the motor in the garage and the bell boy carries all my luggage to the 4th floor. That is 2 aluminum cases full with heavy things 3 big bags with tent, sleeping stuff and cloth and 1 tank bag and 1 helmet. I feel a bit bad about it as I am drinking cola in the garden and he is sweating. To feel better I reward him with enough Rupiahs to buy 8 bottles of cola.

While sitting in the garden I slowly start to realize this is it. It is not going to get any better. End of the journey. Or as many seem to think end of the midlife crisis road trip ;-). Wow I did it. 16.389km, 2.3 liter of oil, about 800 liter of petrol, 4 times on the floor or in the sand on the side, 19 countries, almost 3 month, what else, only friendly and helpful people I met.

Time to take a shower and change into some dry cloth.

The last 700

August 4, today is the start of the end. It’s the last country I am riding through before the motorcycle flies home. The last approx 700km before I reach Kathmandu which is ‘our’ final destination. By the time I am there it will be almost 3 Month and 16.500km since my departure.

But first I have to get there so I leave for a 250km ride to the next big town named Nepalgunj. In between the bigger towns there are only small villages and settlements from tents or huts. The landscape is flat with rice fields everywhere.  Somehow I never expected this of Nepal. I am riding the Highway 1 that stretches all the way from the West to the East. It’s also the only Highway. We would probably call it a nice country road as it runs through a number of National parks. This is the area where various Royals spend there summers hunting tigers. Still you can make a safari here except the hunting part is no longer possible. 

In the afternoon the landscape changes to hills. To the North I can see low mountains covert in dark gray rain clouds. Not long later I am in the middle of it and it rains. As it is getting later in the afternoon I stop. No hurry anyway so let’s enjoy it before it is over. The next morning it is dry for about the first hour. Then it rains again. No wonder everything is so beautifully green. I am vegetarian now for something like 2 weeks and I have to admit I have not often eaten more delicious then is this period. The curry’s and Dahl’s are great. The hotels here are not that great however the friendly people absolutely make up for that shortfall. From time to time you end up in nice confusions due to their pronunciation. The landscape does not change a lot. Everything green and lot’s of big and small rivers to cross. Except for one the bridges are fine. I had not problem here but someone else was less lucky. The following day is more of the same except that even the first hour it rains. It’s still warm and humid. And as it has been raining so much and so long I am being warned for landslides along my way. I continue Eastwards and tonight will the last night before Kathmandu. 

Into the steam sauna

August 1, a new Month has started and a new experience awaits me. Outside the nice air conditioned hotel in Dehra Dun it was hot and humid. However the walk to the “coffee today” shop is short so no worries. Now that I have left Dehra Dunn, that is still at an elevation of about 1100 meters, I have entered the plains that are in summer like a steam sauna. Riding is ok until about 14.00 hrs cause by then it is so humid that the sweat runs of you in little streams.

On the way down I ride through the town of Haridwar. This is 1 of the 7 sacred city’s of the Hindus. Here the holy river Ganges has passed his last gorge and is now going to decent 2000km down the plains. By the river there are hundreds of people washing (either themselves or their cloth) but also just sitting and chatting. Many are dressed in orange and they carry all kind of decorations. I also see many young men on bicycles and they all look like they have travelled from far to come here.

I ride 300km and close before the town of Kichha I see a nice hotel. It’s already 16.00 hrs and I start to get exhausted. I take a room and cool down with a nice shower and the blowing air conditioning.

It’s a different world out here. Riding through the towns and villages you see hundreds of little shops all selling something. There are no garbage cans or anything like that so all the garbage is on the street and actually it’s everywhere. In one of the towns I see small mountains of garbage and children carrying a plastic bag roaming through it looking for something of value.

In the morning I try to leave early however as I have run out of rupiah I have to find an ATM first. The directions I receive at the hotel are the same however the distance ranges from 600 meter to 2km. I decide to take the motor and give it a try. I find 3 ATM’s but none of them work. When back in the hotel they know a few more and I get a car with chauffeur to take me there. The 2nd one works and with enough money for the hotel and a full tank of petrol we head back to the hotel.

All set and with one 1 more border crossing to go until the end of the road trip I set of to later discover there is also 1 more river crossing to do. 

The area here is heavily industrialized and I see some familiar names on the buildings of the factories. The river crossing is used by everyone and that means that from time to time you see people nicely dressed for work riding through it on the moped. Except for one person they all make it across dry. The unlucky one has an engine that stops in the middle of the stream and he has to walk the rest. Except from water in my boots I also make it across dry.

The map I have is except for the distances very accurate. The result is that I reach the boarder earlier then expected. At both sides of the border there is customs and immigrations. So 4 different visits. Each in a separate little building with on the Indian side in each building about 6 men chatting and doing things. They process the paperwork and it must be to hot to go outside for inspection so that was easy. On the Nepal side in each building only 2 people doing the same things as on the India side. I get my stamps and every all set. First thing noticed on the Nepal side is that the people enjoy things more. Or perhaps they are more outgoing. I chat for while with one the border guards while his female colleague is examining the bike. I try to convince her to sit on it so that i can make a picture of her on the bike but she refuses. The border guard is also a guide in the near by Royal Nature Park and he is doing his best to convince me to go there.  I might but I will decide in the morning as for now I am going to Mahendranagar (not easy) for a late lunch and potentially I will stay there. I find a ok hotel and decide to call it a day. I have less then 700km to go until Kathmandu and I have 1 week to do so. And with far less cars on the road that should be less stressful then in India.

Oh what a night!

When I write “Oh what a night” I expect you to think that I have spend the night in some Maharajah palace where while laying down in pillows beautiful girls from India do a sensual belly dance for me while the friendly staff is serving me a wonderful dinner. Before I tell you the real story travel with me into the Indian Himalaya mountains.

July 29, I leave Amritsar to go to the residence city of his holiness the Dalai Lama. Dharamsala is about 206km away and should be a just about a nice scenic drive through the countryside. Now countryside here in India is different then our countryside as there are so many people everywhere. And they are all on the move. So if you think of a road in Holland or America here the road, due to the fact there are hardly any sidewalks, is used by people walking, talking or (no joke) using it as a toilet for either the big or the small message. Then there are people selling things from small wheeled carts. Then there are people, in order of priority, in big trucks, big busses, small trucks, small busses, big cars, small cars, scooters and motorcycles, tuck tucks and bicycles. So unless you are driving a big truck or big bus they will expect you to make room for them. In other words riding on a motorcycle here is being on the low end of the importance scale and they expect you to make room for them. In case you do not they will still expect it and they act upon it. The result is that specially on the smaller roads you are happy having ABS on your motorcycle and you spend a lot of time making emergency escapes. If you think the picture of the road is now complete then you are mistaken cause there are also animals using it. Either to cross it or just to relax on it. There are cows and they seem to know they have a special status in this country so they lay or walk on the road and everyone goes around them. Then there buffalo’s usually in a big number on their way somewhere same as the goats. Horses are outnumbered by all other animals but from time to time they are resting on the road. And of course I should not forget the monkeys sitting by the road side looking at you but in general scared of the noise of the engine.

So all of the above together with a mountain road in a fantastic green scenery takes me to Chakki where there is a sign saying that the bridge is collapsed and that the road is closed. So I have just driven about 120km to now find out I can not get to Dharamsala. Next on my list of city’s to visit is Shimla and I try that as the D-tour to Dharamsala would take to long. I can not reach it today so somewhere along the way I stop at a hotel that from the outside looks quite good. This bring me to the subject that everything in India is different than you expect.

They have adopted digital print and with it they make the most wonderful banners with fantastic slogans. This means you see hotels having a banner up with slogans like “Your satisfaction is our guarantee” together with a picture of a suite with the quality of a Hilton hotel. Or petrol stations with “Fill up to your pleasure” also warnings like “Don’t mix drinking with driving”. Anyway the banner looked great and the outside of the hotel had some fresh paint. The room seemed ok but that was until I had my cold shower and was attacked by the mosquito's. Happy I brought my mosquito net I went to see if I wanted to eat something here. No that is for sure. I will do with chips and cola. I sleep well under my mosquito net and by 8 o’clock in the morning I am ready for a new day. My plan is still to go to Shimla which is not to far and should take not to long however when I arrive there it is so crowded and there is such a noise that I decide to go further to Dehra Dun with a population of only 110.000 people. I expect this to be a bit more ‘my size’. The road is good and on the map is does not seem that far. As it is getting later and later I ask a few times directions and distances and slowly I start to realize that a straight line distance of say 100km has to be multiplied be about 3,2 to get actual km to travel. The result is that by 7:30 in the evening I drive through a little village where someone tells me that I can follow him on the motor and he will direct me to a place where they do have good facilities for staying the night. It was already almost dark and now as the power just went of in the village it is pitch black. At the same time the news has gone around in town that there is a stranger and everyone wants to see him. So I sit there waiting with like 60 people looking at every move I make and although I don’t feel scared I do feel I should go. I tell the person who was going to drive with me I am going and as I am going slow he will soon catch up with me.

I ride for a few minutes but it is pitch black and doing this for another 16 or 60km (I could not get him to confirm what he meant) is to much. I see a semi bus shelter and decide to put up the tent here and sleep until daylight before I continue. It does not take long to put up the tent and when I am brushing my teeth the person who I was going to follow drives by. He stops and we talk for a while. He is really very friendly but he can not convince me to follow him. It’s not a nice spot but there is no one on the road anymore and it’s cool and with the moon shining bright everything looks beautiful. I fall a sleep and within minutes I wakeup again because everything is vibrating. I put my hand on the floor and it vibrates. It does not shake or rock but it does vibrate. Having read about this area being known for rock slides I slightly panic and within seconds I stand on the road in boxers and on my slippers. I look and listen. No cars or trucks to hear. No other noise. Everything quite. Still don’t know what it was but it did happen again a few hours later. When I wake up in the morning I am happy I am still there and nothing has happened. It was scary though.

I spend the day riding and riding and riding some more. Everything around me is green and it looks a bit like Switzerland in late spring. Alpine is the word for it. At times I ride through settlements where people are cutting up big trees by hand. With people I actually mean children. At other points I see whole families sitting by the road all with a hammer chopping up stones into smaller stones.

At points the road forks into two roads with one going down and the other going up. I ask for directions. There are road signs however they are all in Hindu. Someone tries to tell me the road is closed ahead due to maybe rockslides. At some point there is a fork in the road and in the middle there is a sign that the road is closed for foreigners. Not being sure which of the two roads the sign is for I ask for directions and quickly drive of before the soldier who is walking my way can talk to me. It’s been a long day before I reach Dehra Dun and when I find the hotel mentioned in the guide I happily take a room there for 2 nights as tomorrow I am going to do some maintenance and planning on how to get to Kathmandu.

Into India

June 27, it’s the usual drill when I want to have a long day available to get somewhere. I get up at 7 and by 8 o’clock I start the motorcycle. Today is a bit different as I realize shortly before I want to leave that the border does not open until 10:30. So there is time for breakfast together with the others. Then it is off to the border and as I had some directions it goes well until the road stops due to works. People here are used to only seeing tourists going or coming from the border and I must look like going as they all point me further through narrow alleys where the motor hardly fits through. Then a stretch of mud and sand where everyone tries a different route through it creating a total chaos as up and down traffic merges into one big cloud of dust and sand. Anyway not far further is the border and it is like an oasis of serenity as there is absolutely no-one making any noise. This is also because there are only a handful officials and except for 2 backpackers  no other tourists.

I get my exit stamp in my passport and Carnet and drive slowly through the gate to the Indian side. Here it takes a bit longer as the power just went off and the computer acts funny. Then a health declaration regarding the Swine Flue. Some stamps in my Carnet and then to the only person authorized to sign my Carnet. It is a way to keep unemployment low. Then inspection of the serial numbers of the motor and check of the luggage. Now they find my second passport and they look at me as if I am a criminal. How is it possible you have a 2nd passport they ask. I tell them a story about being an important business manager and having to travel a lot and this is my business passport. As the picture and the dates are the same they let me go. Saying you are a manager goes don well in these countries. If they only knew ;-).

Now off to Amritsar and a hotel with air-conditioning. While riding into the city I realize I am to much used to small city’s and towns. I get totally lost but apparently I am not the only one as asking for the Golden Temple gives me multiple directions to go to. Riding around for fun here is not something you do. It’s so hot and humid that my hole shirt is wet and I can feel the sweat drops running of my face. I consider riding without helmet, gloves and jacket but don’t as it is really nice to have it on if you do fall. And the times I did fall where at very low speeds or almost standing still. In other words these kind of circumstances. I see the sign of a hotel that is on my list. The security guard looks after motor while I look at the room. Fine by me although it does not have air conditioning but the fan will be enough to keep me cool. The motorcycle goes to the 24 hour parking (0.40USD per 24 hours) and I am going to have a shower. While under the shower I realize this is the last country I am travelling through. The next one will be my end destination…

The next morning I sleep late and treat myself to a nice Cappuccino and toasted sandwich for breakfast. I sit on the 2nd floor of a new, clean and modern coffee shop. I watch the total chaos on the street. Sometimes a car stops to load or unload passengers. They do this in the middle of the road blocking it for others. Then when they drive off again they immediately are on the horn. However as everyone is on the horn all the time no-one pays attention to the other. As soon as you are passed by it is your problem to stay on the road. This means you can be overtake by someone to the right who actually has to go left and as soon as he has overtaken you he turns left cutting you off.

I visit the golden temple and am surprised by the enormous amount of people coming and going. This is different then what we are used to. People swim or wash themselves in the pool around the temple. I sit for while by the water looking at it all. India is different I agree with myself. On the way back to the hotel I see a hairdresser and decide to have a haircut and a shave. One hour later and 0.70USD poorer I leave the shop. Tomorrow towards the mountains to find some smaller town and hopefully cooler weather.

Off to Lahore

July 25, After 2 wonderful nights in Hotel Islamabad (air-conditioning, cappuccino and and a clean big bed) I leave the city for Lahore. When I entered the city 2 days ago I got a feeling for the direction to follow when leaving. It is not that busy on the road yet when I leave. I stop for a red traffic light while from behind an ambulance approaches the crossing. With flashing lights and sound it slowly crosses. However as people here have a different way of driving one guy on a motorcycle does not look and while talking on his mobile phone slams right into the side of the ambulance. Now if you have to have an accident then you would think it is you lucky day if it is with an ambulance. Here however it work different. The motorcyclist is down on the pavement and the ambulance drives off. Someone stops and sort of picks up the motorcyclist and pushes his bike to the side. Further down the ambulance stops and the driver gets out and looks at the damage to his car. My light turns to green and even more careful then before I continue.

On the map a real motorway shows between Islamabad and Lahore and after all the small road I decide to enjoy it for change. Also someone told me that there are KFC’s and coffee shops on the way. At the toll gate I hear a loud whistle and before I know a traffic police officer stands in front of me.  Where are you going is the question? Lahore I reply. ‘You have no permission to go to Lahore” he says. I look at him and wonder what is wrong in Lahore that I can not go there. To be sure I explain I have to got to Lahore as I am travelling to India. Again he says “You have no permission to go to Lahore” but now he explains it a bit more “You have to take the other road”. I ask why? The motorway is only for cars and you can not travel on it he says. OK so I can go to Lahore but not via this road. I return and take the N5. I miss out on the KFC’s and the cappuccino but that’s ok.

Lahore is a 6 hour drive. Somehow it feels like every distance takes me 6 hours. Anyway while riding the temperature is ok but when stopping you start to sweat immediately. For lunch I eat some chips and drink more then a liter of orange juice. I am getting used to when people seeing me, taking a chair and sit next to me and only look at me. Today however I do my best to avoid other people. That is until I reach Lahore. Here you have no change to avoid people. My goodness where do all these people come from. Bicycles, scooters, motorcycles, horse and carriage, cart and donkey, small cars, old cars, rickshaw's and of course the big 4 by 4 cars and busses in various sizes. All going in different directions and all feeling they should go first. Amazing to see and bit horrifying to be part of.

The city is bigger then I expected and although I do my best I can’t seem to find the hostel I am looking for. A rickshaw driver offers to bring me there for free as I am a guest in his country. Within 2 minutes I loose him as he is going to fast through the traffic. I stop somewhere where there is lot’s police on the street and I expect to be able to ask for some directions. Not here, they are all very official and explain that this is the official area and I have to go away. I try with being an official guest to the country but is doesn’t work. I ride a bit further and stop 4 rickshaw's before I have one who speak any English. From here on it only takes minutes before I am at the hostel and carry my luggage up the stairs.

The hostel is full of nice people and with a couple of them I go for dinner. One of them is Nathan. He has left Australia 6 Month ago on a Australian Post delivery bike Posty Bike Named Dorothy) . He is on his way to England. Others are heading the same way by 4x4. One of them however left England 2 years and 3 Month ago has no end date yet. Except for the hot and humid air and continues power outage it is enjoyable to spend some time here. The Sunday afternoon we go to see the border closing ceremony at the Wagan/Amritsa (Pakistan/India) border. What a spectacle to see hundreds of people here only to see this ceremony. Before the ceremony starts there is music and people waving with flags and singing and shouting. Happy to have seen it we return home in the Rickshaw for an other unbelievable ride with hundreds of other people through sand, dust and noise. I have it on film and will put it online when back in NL.

To compensate for the expensive hotel in Islamabad the hostel only costs 4,5USD a night. Now of to bed for an early start tomorrow to go to India.

Men in black

July 22, I left Chilas early in the morning. Really have to do some good km’s otherwise i will never get anywhere. From the very high roads surrounded by high high peaks full of snow and the river deep down below I slowly move in to lower area’s. I ride a bit faster until I see 2 men in black carrying Kalashnikov machinegun's. They look serious while they signal me to stop. Follow us they say and it is big relief that they have the word “Police” on their shoulders and they wear a name tag. They climb on their Honda 125cc motorcycle and I follow them. In the next town they stop and they want to know if I need anything. I buy a cola and while I drink it they start to look a bit nervous. At first I was only surrounded by children but by now half the village stands around me and the motor and my new Police escort has not arrived jet.

Come quickly they say and off we ride. We cross a bridge that is partially damaged. Later I learn that there was an attack here recently. that is probably also the reason that they got a bit nervous when so many people where standing around us. A little further outside the village they stop and tell me that my Police party will be waiting for me further down the road. “Don’t stop anywhere and good luck” they say.

I never met the other Police party but I did get stopped a few times by members of the Anti terrorist squad. They look very wary when they see me coming. One of them wants to know what I have in my bags and as he looks very serious I decide it is not the time for jokes. They do wear great shirts and I am trying to trade one of my polo shirts with one of theirs that is black with in big white letters “Anti terrorist squad” on the back and Pakistan Commando logo. Bad luck.

It’s hot and humid. Dark clouds come from the distance closer and closer. I am in Batgram and wanted to do 100km more when I call it a day. I find a nice hotel overlooking the town and it appears to be a nice and calm place.

After a cooling shower i walk into the restaurant where I am being invited for a late lunch. I meet Bilal Shah and his team of people. They are building 21 schools here in the region and they work for/with the Asia Development Bank. They arrange for my motor to be parked in the reception of the hotel and tonight I have dinner with them. As the sun sets the Monsoon rain comes in and cools everything down. On the rooftop I sit talking with a colleague of him who has studies in Holland. He lived in Enschede for 1,5 years. I think we talk for more than 2 hours and it is a pleasure.

Dinner is at about 11 in the evening and before I know it is 1 o’clock and time to go to sleep.

The next morning after breakfast pictures, some good advice and an explanation of the best road to take to Islamabad. I do my best and ask around a few times but I still think I missed that road as it did not look the way it was described.

While driving down to Islamabad the number of cars on the road increases dramatic. From the nice almost empty mountain roads I end up in the craziest traffic I have ever encountered. If there are 2 lanes at least 5 cars ride side by side. First they go and then they look if there is room. If there is no room then they go until they can not go any further and they stop. Then they start thinking if there is a solution. They use their horns continually. If I am not carful they come drive next to me and then push me off the road. I have never used my horn so often and even shouted at 2 of them. Different country different habits.

Once in Islamabad I try to find the foreigners campground but I am unsuccessful. Lucky me as I now have a reason to check in to the Islamabad hotel which is a 5 star hotel. I am going to enjoy this!

What a wonderful people

July 20, I set of for a short ride to Karimabad. Short in the sense of km’s but not short in the sense of time. A stretch about 80km takes me 3 hours.

The scenery is wonderful, the people wave at me or when I stop come and shake my hand and the road is from the pass to almost Islamabad under construction. That means it is going to make me far longer then planned to drive the almost 800km or it will mean less sightseeing.

In Karimabad I spend my afternoon wondering around the fort up on the hill above the city. The path leading to the fort is so steep and it is over 3000 meter high where I am that I have to pause twice as I am out of breath. Hope it is not because I am getting old.

For the tour around the fort I have a very friendly young student. He explains a lot about the different rulers of the fort and while talking we come to the subject of Islam and extremists. We talk about this and the way Pakistan is in the news regarding the war on terror. It is a very pleasant conversation and when I tell him that I expected for example that all the woman would be wearing black chador's he starts to laugh loudly. You have indeed a incorrect impression of Pakistan he says. And he is right. The woman here walk around in beautiful and colorful dresses and most of them only wear a shawl covering there hair. So far Pakistan is a really nice country with very hospitable people. Let see if further south it’s the same.

The next morning I set of early as I want to ride a good distance. As before the view is wonderful and the road is awful. It’s not difficult it’s only that at about every bend in the road you have to make a D-tour. So off the road into a pile of sand and stones and then back on the road. I make an average of about 25km per hour.

Late afternoon I reach Chilas and check inn to the Karakoram Inn. In hindsight the most awful hotel. In the middle of the night I discover it is full with little biting flies and each time there is a power down (about 4 times that night) the generator starts and it is located not far from my window. The owner is very friendly and that makes somewhat up for it.

Dinner that night is again delicious. funny is that they always give you a menu and that they tell you what they have available.

A warm welcome to Pakistan with …

July 19, The Chinese are extreme burocratic and it takes forever before I receive my pink A1 size peace of paper that I have to show to the military at the pass so that I can leave the country. They even take my temperature, scan all my luggage and quarrel with my guide for 30 minutes before I am allowed to go.

At the gate I am stopped and told “Only 60, 60 you understand” Yes, yes 60km per hour I will do. They told the driver of the car in front of me the same thing and with one soldier riding with us we set of. As it is no-man's-land they give you an escort to the Pass. The Pakistan driver I have to follow drive precisely 60 however not km’s but miles and we fly low through the country side and up the mountains. At 3500 meter high it get’s a bit cold and I stop to put some extra cloth on. At this altitude you also start to feel your head a bit. It’s bit like a headache. One more checkpoint and then the final border crossing checkpoint. All well the form is complete and correct and I am allowed to leave. At the monument at the highest point there are lot’s of Chinese soldiers making pictures of themselves together with one of the Pakistani guards. They also make a picture of me and him and me and the motorcycle and me with them and the motorcycle and more of the same sometimes in other combinations. 

A few hundred meter further the Pakistani border guard says welcome to Pakistan while he shakes my hand. Please come in for some tea. We drink tea and eat cookies while he explains that he is up here at this 4733 meter high pass for 3 Month before he goes home to his family. It is a small building with 1 room that has 3 beds, 2 chairs and a smelly petroleum heater. Not the nicest place to work for 3 month. After tea I set of for a 84km ride to Sost as there is the customs and immigration office. The Pakistani side of to Karakoram highway is under construction and that means a slow ride down through sand, stones and rocks and from time to time a small stretch of asphalt. The view is breathtaking though. High peaks with snow and fast running river below. The first truck I meet on the road is looking precisely they way I expected it to look.

Once in Sost it’s the same super friendly treatment. I get a nice stamp in my passport and someone calls for the customs clerk to do the work on my Carnet. No check’s no nothing except many ‘hallo’s’ and “welcome’s”. Sost is small and soon I am in my hotel for the night and order my first Chicken curry with rice. O and of course tea. Lipton black tea without milk served by a super friendly man. One more noticeable thing is that all officials look like sergeant majors from the English army. They all have this wonderfully manicured moustache. And everyone speaks English it is a great joy to be here.